Hannay Tour of the Machars

From a 2015 ‘diary’ sourced by Constable David Hannah; updated[1]

Put on your hiking shoes (and fill the tank)! We’re going on a Hannay Tour of the Machars, the triangular peninsula in the historical county of Wigtownshire in Galloway that juts out into the Solway Firth, with Wigtown Bay to the east and Luce Bay to the west. In these lands the Hannay Clan made its home and mischief.

The Machars Tours have taken place about every three-to-six years since the late 1980s, with at least one (in 2000) including a trip to Northern Ireland. With planning responsibilities passing through the years among Clan officers, participants generally have been Clan members who wanted to extend their visit for the annual Gathering and connect more viscerally with Hannay history in the region.

Of course, this is just one path you might use to see the area with Hannay history in mind. While this order of travel matches that of the 2015 pilgrimage and leaves Sorbie Tower as the climax, you might find that another path is more efficient in time and fuel. Also, be aware that some details may have changed since the tour was described—although, to be honest, things don’t change quite as fast out in the Galloway countryside as they might wherever you make your busy way through the world.

The Machars Tour

1 – Newton Stewart – We start in this county town of Wigtownshire, which gradually replaced Wigtown as the principal commercial centre in the area. Founded by the Stewarts of Castle Stewart in the 17^th century as a burgh of barony, it formerly had a cotton factory and carpet mill, was the wool centre for the Minnigaff hills, and was an important market town, being on one of the principal routes linking the Irish Sea ferry ports with southern Scotland and England. Now Newton Stewart is the gateway to the Galloway hills and Glentrool and some of the ‘darkest’ skies in Europe.

2 – Glenluce – Travel west to the site of Glenluce Abbey, a 12^th-century Cistercian abbey founded in 1190 by Roland, Earl of Galloway. Glenluce also has the longest main street in Galloway and is associated with the Dalrymple family story that inspired Sir Walter Scott’s The Bride of Lammermoor, later immortalised by Scott and Donizetti.

Passing through Glenluce, we travel on down the west coast of Luce Bay, passing Auchenmalg and look across over 82,000 acres of land historically associated with the Earls of Stair (the Dalyrimple family). Following the Solway Heritage Trail, we pass the site of Chapel Finian, in the 10^th and 11^th centuries a resting place for pilgrims travelling to Whithorn. Only low walls remain of the chapel on the long raised beach. We might gaze across Luce Bay, sometimes translated as the Bay of Light—so named by the Romans—towards the Mull of Galloway with its lighthouse at its tip. The Isle of Man lies to the south and Ireland to the west beyond the Mull.

On to Monreith, with its sculpted cross and statue of an otter, a reminder of Gavin Maxwell’s otter Mij from his book Ring of Bright Water.  The Maxwell family home of Monreith lies just behind the hill.

3 – Port William – Time for a coffee stop and short walk about. Have a word with the bronze fisherman by local artist Andrew Brown looking out across the bay, and see if he’ll tell you any interesting stories about what he’s seen. The port still has a working harbour and once had a major role in the fight against smuggling, as many soldiers were billeted here.

We now turn back northward, heading for Wigtown and lunch; en route we pass the Old Place of Mochrum and stop for a few minutes at Torhouse Stone Circle. Can you spot the other stones—well beyond the main circle—that are associated with this monument?

4 – Wigtown – A Royal Burgh and former county town of Wigtownshire, from Carsluith in the east to Portpatrick in the west, and stretching south to the sea and north to the Bargrennan and Merrick hills. Here is home of the Bladnoch, dating from 1814 and claiming to be the most southerly lowland whisky distillery, once again distilling after periods of closure and revival—including a seven-year pause from 1993 to 2000 (and a refurbishment that was in progress when this 2015 trip was made)—and various varieties are available to purchase in Newton Stewart for the connoisseur.

We stop in the town square outside the County Buildings, sitting on the site of the original Wigtown Tolbooth dating back to at least the 16th century. For centuries, this was the centre of Wigtown’s civic life, serving as council chamber, courthouse, and prison. The structure was erected in the French-inspired style in 1863 and is only the third construction on this site.  On this site the Martyrs were kept until their execution by drowning in Wigtown Bay in 1685. The graves of the Martyrs can be visited after a short walk downhill to the wide sea-washed pastures and are marked by a cairn with iron railings.  It is here that the women were tied to stakes and left to drown as the incoming tide rose.

There are fine views over the Machars and across, opposite, to the ancient ferry town of Cree and the bonny Galloway hills. Particularly interesting for us are Carsluith Castle, Cardoness House, and Kirkdale House, all now under the ownership of the Hannays of Kirkdale.

After lunch, the remains of Wigtown Castle can be found at the bottom of Harbour Road. Some accounts say it was captured by William Wallace in 1297 during the War of Scottish Independence. In 1416, Andrew Hannay of Sorbie went off with the Earl of Wigtown, who headed the Royal Archers of Scotland, to fight the English in France. Gilbert Hannay was a Baillie of Wigtown in 1457 and, in 1549, William Hannay was Provost of Wigtown.

Wigtown is also Scotland’s National Book Town and has many interesting little shops to browse for the odd bargain.

If we are lucky—and here in the right season—we may see the live video recording of the Ospreys and their new chicks.

5 – Whithorn – This is the ‘Cradle of Christianity in Scotland’ and traditionally regarded as the site of its first Christian church, reportedly founded by St Ninian in the 5^th century. The hamlet is characterized by its long street, small market square, and world famous archaeological ‘dig’.  Through the decorated archway are the dig site, priory and parish church; try to count the Hannay and Hannah graves in the churchyard.  Although the dig has been covered to protect it from weather, theft and vandalism are part of its story, and many artefacts can be seen in the museum and shop with a ‘hands-on’ discovery centre.

In 1390, Fynlaus A’Hanna was granted a benefice in the gift of the Bishop and Chapter of Whithorn by the Pope, possibly Boniface IX [2].  There is a fine old town hall in the square.

6 – Isle of Whithorn – Home to around 300 people and only a short stop, with time for a walk round the harbour and down to 13^th century ruin of St Ninian’s Chapel, associated with the traditional landing place of St Ninian.

Take a look at the ‘L’ shaped tower house, Isle Castle, across the harbour—similar to Sorbie and likely built within a century of each other. This tower house is still lived in, but visitors are not welcomed, so just gaze from the road. It is only about 20 miles from here to the Isle of Man, which can be seen on a clear day.  There was much trade between these two Isles.

Just a few miles to the north is St Ninian’s Cave, where tradition holds that the Saint first trod on Scots soil, bringing Christianity from Ireland, long before St Columba. St Ninian is also said to have used the cave as a retreat from the church at Whithorn, and there is still an annual pilgrimage from Whithorn to the cave each June to commemorate his life. The beach there is covered with lovely rounded granite stones and pebbles (described, possibly erroneously, in the original diary as originating from the Creetown and Dalbeattie quarries), ground into shape by years of travel with tides along the coast to end up here.

7 – Garlieston – A ‘planned’ village constructed from 1764 by the 7^th Earl of Galloway, Garlieston had such industries as a fishing and cargo harbour, a ropewalk, an oatmeal mill and, more recently, served as a testing ground for the Mulberry Harbours used in the Normandy landings of World War II.  The first two modern Wardens of Sorbie Tower, Wendy Ronan and Stephen Hanna (Clan Convenor), each lived here at one time, not only caring for the tower at Sorbie but maintaining good relations with the local communities.

8 – Sorbie – As you may know, the name Sorbie is thought to refer to the sour (marsh) lands which surrounded Sorbie Tower when it was built in the 14^th century and on the site of previous wooden motte-and-bailey stronghold and settlement.  The Tower is about one mile from the village and has been under restoration by Clan Hannay, considered by some—certainly the Clan itself—to be descendants of the medieval owners. When Hannay lands were sold, their once-notable influence fell to the Stewarts, Earls of Galloway, who built Garlieston House and its landscape using the labour of French prisoners of the Napoleonic Wars. The Earls of Galloway, some buried at Sorbie, were active in the local community, and the 10^th Earl was instrumental in bringing the railway to Whithorn and Garlieston harbour. It was the coming of the railway which led to the draining of the sour lands around Sorbie Tower, allowing the access we enjoy today. (Before you make your next trip to the Tower and environs, you might consider checking out our guide for visitors.)

I hope you have enjoyed touring the lands of our ancestors – Machars Hannay, where everywhere tells tales of our family. (If you take lovely pictures of these landmarks, please send them to us and we’ll consider adding them to this article.) There is a great deal more information about the various branches which grew from these roots in Stewart Francis’s book The Hannays of Sorbie Tower, which can be purchased from the Keeper of the Tartan.

Below, we have reproduced from the original diary just a few of the place names associated with Hannays for your information. How many can you spot on the tour?

Place Names of Note

Here are some place names connected with Hannays from the Parish lists of Wigtown 1684. The names in brackets are probably farmsteads or houses within villages and hamlets. These notes were appended to the original 2015 diary, are printed here with minimal adjustment or correction, and may contain inaccuracies.

• Glasserton (Arbrick, Cottars, Challochblewan, Glaston)
• Glenluce (Gillespie, Cullfassen, Gass, Glenhalmer, Grennan, Kirktome)
• Inch (Garthcarie, Lochans, Beoch)
• Kirkowan (Over Mondork, Craigdow, Myle of Clugston, Barnegist, Meikle of Killhocodale, The Fill of Lochrule Craiglaw, Drumboig)
• Kirkinner (Dereagill, Baillard, Airlies, Kirkwachop, Barnbarroch, Clutog, Capinoch, Drumjargen, Sleyhubbard Barnesse, Bellgairne, Blairshinnoch, Boreland, Mill of Little Aresse)
• Kirkmaiden (Cardryn)
• Mochrum (Chany, Altocry, Dirrie, Barcarham, Drumsceog)
• Penninghame (Balterson, Barvrennan, Overglasnich)
• Portpatrick (Craigbuie, Killantringen)
• Sorbie (Pallmallet, Baltier, Kevens, Kirklands, Cruggleton, Cults, Powton, Eggerness, Cauldirrie, Penkill Yelton, Orchardtoune, Corwar, Ingleston, Myle of Whitehills, Balseir, Whythills, Kilsture, Clonch, Barmullin, Culnoye, Culkae, Doeltoune [also known as Dowalton where there is a crannog on Dowalton Loch, and also the name of the burn which runs past Sorbie Tower])
• Stonykirk (Culgroat, Three Merk, Laigh, Balgrenan, Kirkmabreck, Float)
• Whitehorn Burgh & Parish (Portyerrocho, Broughtonne Wall, Broughtonne Skeoch, Outonne Gallows, Castell Wig, Broad Wig, Ollrach, Buyoch, Balsmiths, Owtoun Corwar)
• Wigtoune (Clauchrie, Broadfield, Torhouse, Balmay, The Wood, Glenturke)

Farther North, around New Galloway & St John’s Town of Dalry and the Dark Skies area (where can be the most spectacular views of the starry heavens), there is a farm and other land bearing our name.  These are too far to visit today but they are:

Hannayston Hill – A writer for The Gallovidian (1902), probably more concerned with folktale than reality, discussed a witch who allegedly lived at Hannayston in the Kells in the mid-eighteenth century: ‘Some say her name was Nicholas Grier, others that it was Girzie McClegg, but it matters little which now’. [Editor’s note: Indeed.] She was blamed with stealing butter, causing cows to sicken, and sucking milk from them, in the shape of a hare. She also appeared as a cat walking on its hind legs. Anyone she disliked, she drowned by ‘sinking a caup in the yill-boat [a wooden ale cup in the ale barrel] in her kitchen’. In the midst of so much incredible reportage, it is striking that she was said to have muttered her incantations in Gaelic, a language which had probably died out in the area by the sixteenth century.

Hannayston/Hannaston Farm – 21st Nov. 1682: ‘Hugh Craufuird of Drumdow, land-waiter in Leith’, occurs in shilling lands of Hannayston, in Carrick. Robertson, in his ‘* Ayrshire Families’, says, ‘I have met no more accounts of this family of (Craufurd of Drongan, nor of the place itself, till in the year 1621, when it was in the possession of the Craufiirds of Lei”orris’.

The Records of the Parliaments of Scotland to 1707, K.M. Brown et al., eds, (St Andrews, 2007-2015), date accessed: 5 May 2015

Charles II: Translation,  1669, 19 October, Edinburgh, Parliament,  Parliamentary Register,  At Edinburgh 23 December 1669, Charters: ratifications, 1669/10/65] ¹Ratification in favour of Sir James Dalrymple of Stair

Our sovereign lord and estates of this present parliament ratify, approve and perpetually confirm the charter and infeftment made and granted by his majesty, under his highness’s great seal, to Sir James Dalrymple of Stair, knight and baronet, one of the senators of the college of justice, his heirs, successors and assignees whatsoever, of all and whole the fourteen pound land of old extent of Stair, with the mills, woods, fishings and pertinents of the same, comprehending the forty shilling land of the mains of Stair, with the tower, fortalice and manor place of Stair; the forty shilling land of Davidston; the forty shilling land of Mackieston; the forty shilling land of Stairaird; the forty shilling land of Dunningstoun; the forty shilling land of Lochhill; the forty shilling land of Chalmerston and Burn, with the corn mill of Stair, mill lands, multures, sucken and sequels thereof, with woods, lochs and other pertinents of the same, and salmon fishings in the water of Ayr, used and wont, with all other parts, pendicles and pertinents of the same; all and whole the four merk land of Clonstang and Mackwallackstoun,² comprehending the lands of Holbyre, Burnbrae and Thorne, and the four merk land of Burn and Trabboch Mains, comprehending the lands of Lawhill, Begstoun, Hannahston and Keyshill, with the pertinents, property and superiority of the same; and all and whole the twenty shilling land of old extent of Carbowie, with houses, biggings, yards, parts, pendicles and pertinents thereof, all lying within the parish of Ochiltree, King’s-Kyle and sheriffdom of Ayr, together with the teinds, great and small, parsonage and vicarage of the whole foresaid lands, with the pertinents included therewith and annuities of the said teinds, with free ish and entry to the meadow of the lands of Carbowie through whatsoever lands pertaining to Sir John Cochrane of Ochiltree, with the new gift and disposition of the foresaid lands and erection of the same in a free barony and change of the holding of so many of the foresaid lands as are held ward, from simple to taxed ward, for payment of the tax duties mentioned in the said charter for the ward, non-entry and relief of the said lands and marriage of the heirs succeeding thereto, which charter is of the date at Whitehall, 15 February 1669, together also with the precept and instrument of sasine following thereupon, in all and sundry heads, articles, clauses, tenors and contents thereof, circumstances and conditions contained therein; and declare, statute and ordain that this present general ratification thereof is and shall be as valid, effectual and sufficient, in all respects, as if the same were at length word for word inserted in this present act of parliament, dispensing with the not inserting thereof herein, and with all other exceptions or objections whatsoever that may be proposed or alleged against the validity thereof, and his majesty and estates of parliament foresaid will, grant, decree and declare that the foresaid charter, with the precept and instrument of sasine following thereupon, and this present ratification thereof, shall be a good, valid and sufficient right to the said Sir James Dalrymple and his foresaids to bruik, enjoy and possess the lands and others above-written contained therein, after the form and tenor of the said charter, as their own proper heritage heritably in all time coming.

FALKIRK ARCHIVES – Forbes of Callendar Papers finding aid Part 10 – Earlstoun Estates  1789-1808 Tack by William Forbes of Callendar to Alex. and Wm. Robison of lands of Hannayston [Hannaston] and Falkirk Archives (Archon Code: GB558) others in parish of Kells. Related papers, including missive of continuation. (6 items)

Hannaston Avenue, Drongan, Ayrshire

Hannahston Community Woodland lies between Drongan and the A70 Cumnock to Ayr Road and is a thriving community woodland, extremely popular with local walkers, dog-walkers, wildlife-watchers, and the local school.  A former mining site, the extensive planting over the years is now maturing nicely, with mixed, varied woodland and a range of habitats and species. With help from Central Government Green Network, we have been able to make further improvements with the addition of new benches, interpretation wildflower meadow sowing & enhancement and high level woodland education provision with the running of a Forest School with experienced, qualified leaders. 1996 – on the list as an Open Cast Coal Mine A particularly pleasing presentation that Professor Griggs gave us showed the work in East Ayrshire, at the Hannahston site near Drongan, which was an unrestored site with a restoration bond shortfall. That work was particularly creative. The site was fully restored to community woodland using funds generated from the granting of planning permission for housing development. That was very imaginative, and other examples were cited in that presentation.

Near Maybole in Ayrshire -1758

The “100 merkliand of old extent” which Abercrummie describes is shown by charter records to take in the £4 lands of Monkwood, £5 lands of Grange, including Kewnston, Mossend, Littleton, Hannayston and Reidston, £2 lands of of Semorway (St. Murray), £2 lands of Beauches (Beoch), half merk lands of Beyond the Moor, 36 shilling lands of Perieston, 13 shillings and 4 pence lands of Knockfenton, 20 shilling lands of Little Smithston, five-and-a-half merk lands of Culnane (Nether Culzean), and the £3 13 shilling and 4 penny lands of Platcorway with the mill of Corway, the mill lands and income, and the Doon fishings